The Aletsch Glacier is the largest in the Alps: 20km long and up to 800m at its deepest point. Looking out over the river of ice as it cuts through the Alps like a frozen serpent is humbling and inspiring.
In 2024, over 1 million people viewed the glacier from Jungfraujoch, thanks to the highest railway station in Europe at 3454 m. Along with the wow-factor glacial views, you can ride a zip line and view ice sculptures before feasting on an Indian buffet lunch and buying a Tissot watch.
Nineteen kilometres away (as the crow flies), the Aletsch Arena viewpoints offer an altogether different experience. From here, the glacier sweeps towards you from the Jungfraujoch, the radiating crevasses fanning out below your feet. The main viewpoints (Hohfluh, Moosfluh, Bettmerhorn and Eggishorn) can soon get busy, but not as busy as the Jungfraujoch, and you’ll find no touristy shops here. Peace and quiet are just steps away from the cable car summits. Follow hiking trails long and short across the rugged ridgelines dotted with alpine flowers and unforgettable picnic spots. Linger here and admire the length and curvature of the Aletsch Glacier while you can. It’s a sombre moment when you remember the glaciers are shrinking year by year.
About the Aletsch Glacier Trail
Length: 12km
Total ascent: 450 m
Total descent: 575 m
Start point: Moosfluh summit station (2,333 m)
End point: Fiescheralp summit station (2,212 m)
This undulating and spectacular trail skirts the mountainside, following the course of the impressive Aletsch Glacier for 75% of the route. Whether you choose to amble, hike or run, you can’t fail to be blown away by the views. All above 2000 m, it’s rocky and rugged, but – if you’re up here with your trail shoes – there are plenty of exhilarating runnable sections.
After finally veering away from the glacier to the Märjelensee lake, the diverse route throws in a 1 km illuminated tunnel. This delivers you back to the other side of the valley and the well-trodden descent to the Fiescheralp summit station.
My trot along the Aletsch Glacier Trail
My husband and I set out from Interlaken by train for a day in the Aletsch Arena. We wanted to spend some time at altitude in preparation for running the E35 Eiger Ultratrail a few days later. We planned to enjoy any runnable sections but generally took it easy and hiked anything remotely difficult.
Getting to the Aletsch Arena
From the Jungfrau region, it’s a journey of 2.5 hours or more by public transport (slightly faster on the way back). For us, it was well worth the effort.
From Interlaken, our journey took us via Spiez and Brig to Mörel, then, from Mörel, up to the car-free mountain resort of Riederalp by cable car. We were having a relatively leisurely day, so we set off for a slow stroll through the relaxed village, admiring the attractive mix of old & new chalets and views across the valley.
Twenty minutes later (just past the pretty gift shop with the bright yellow cheery cow that doubles as a bench), we reached the Riederalp cable car for the Moosfluh viewpoint.
We ascended through wispy clouds. Glimpses of pointy, glaciated peaks lay up ahead with a dazzling blue sky promised at the summit.
Setting off from Moosfluh
From the top of the Moosfluh cable car, we headed straight to the viewpoint. This was our first sight of ‘that view,’ and we needed a few minutes to take it all in. We’d chanced on a blue sky day with just enough floaty clouds to give occasional spots of shadowy contrast. It was pretty crowded; a couple of large groups had commandeered large areas of the rocky platform for a picnic. But actually, the view here is so vast that all the selfy activity helped to add a bit of perspective in the foreground of my pictures, providing splashes of colour against the wild glacier of the remote backdrop.
The viewpoint also provides a good perspective of the first part of the trail: the ridgeline above the glacier heading off to the right. Once you’re ready to set off, look out for the cluster of yellow walking signposts. For much of the trail (the first 8km), look out for the yellow signposts with the green square: “Aletsch Panoramaweg 39”.
From Moosfluh, you’re joining the Alestch Panoramaweg part way along, so make sure you set off in the right direction: towards Biel and Märjela Gletscherstube (not towards Riederalp).
The Aletsch Panoramaweg 39
We headed off, following a narrow rocky path, immediately leaving the crowds behind. It’s enjoyable hiking terrain; a silent world of alpine rock garden with wild flowers poking up from mossy areas. Our ambitious trotting pace soon slowed to a near standstill. The main problem was the view; it was honestly quite astounding, and each time I caught a glimpse out of the corner of my eye, I risked falling flat on my face. This part of the trail is a (very small) part of the Swiss Alps 100 Endurance Run event but should be quite runnable if you’re a competent trail runner willing to ignore the view for more than 10 consecutive seconds.
As we moved along the path and gained a little more height, the vastness of the glacier became even more apparent. Running (or hiking) with such a backdrop is quite surreal, almost too good to be true (am I running on a treadmill in a virtual reality?). It was definitely real as I could feel a refreshing chilled breeze sweeping up from the ice. On a couple of occasions, clouds merged together and sank around us to block the view, making it only more incredible when they cleared around us once more.
It really was a “Panoramaweg” at every turn. Every few steps I ran, I looked up to find another photo opportunity. A slightly new angle of the glacier one minute, snowy peaks reflecting in a small lake the next.
Shortly after keeping left at the sign for Roti Chumme and Märjela Gletscherstube, the trail started to drop. The crevasses now looked almost close enough to touch. They also looked distinctly like artistic peaks of egg white on an elaborate pavalova, I commented to my husband as we stopped for our Swiss cheese sandwich picnic.
Turning our back on the Aletsch Glacier
Continuing on our way, we gradually gained a bit of height again to reveal one last view: a glimpse of the distant Mönch and Jungfraujoch. No doubt thousands of tourists were currently crammed onto the Sphinx observation deck. It was strange to think we currently had this entire viewpoint to ourselves.
Shortly after (around Kilometre 7), we began to veer up and away from the glacier and around to the Märjelensee lake. Here, it’s rugged and desolate in the extreme, with huge rocky boulders. It’s fascinating but lacks the star-studded quality of the views up to now. That is, until you turn around and look back. The swathes of glacial crevasses passing by on their way to the Jungfraujoch are still visible in the distance.
Just short of 8.5 kilometres, you have the chance to stop off for refreshments at Gletscherstube Märjelensee. Check the opening hours of this mountain hut if you’re relying on it for lunch.
Around the same spot, you’ll find a junction of footpaths. This is where you leave behind the Aletsch Panoramaweg 39.
From this point, follow signs to Tälligrat and Fiescheralp.
The Tälligrat illuminated tunnel
We approached the mountainside where a small, dark, shedlike doorway stood uninvitingly, welcoming us to nowhere. I poked my head inside and was plunged into darkness. Despite the ‘illuminations’, the Tälligrat tunnel was dark and a little eery. As I felt my foot disappear into a cold puddle of water that had pooled on the uneven floor, I realised I would need to pay attention.
The random locations of the lighting meant that we were walking blind in some sections (maybe some bulbs needed replacing). All we could see was a wavering torchlight approaching in the distance. After a few hundred metres, we turned on our mobile phone torches. On the bright side, the dark, cold tunnel was extremely refreshing after being exposed to the high alpine sunshine bouncing off the glacier for the last few hours. My arms were soon covered in goosebumps and splashes of glacially cold water dripping from the ceiling. My squeals of surprise echoed away from me.
One kilometre later, we stepped back out and hurried away from the shade of the mountain into a sunny spot overlooking the valley. We were back in another world of steep valleys falling to lush green meadows dotted with alpine villages. The barren, glaciated landscape was a distant dream already as we followed the wide gravelly track for the final couple of kilometres down to the Fiescheralp summit station.
Departing the Aletsch Glacier Trail
From Fiescheralp, we drifted down to the picturesque village of Fiesch by gondola. We had time to hunt down an ice cream before our train back to Interlaken via Brig and Spiez (approx 2 hours journey time). As we set off, strolling alongside the Weisswasser River, the wild waters threw up a glaciated mist to cool us. Sunlight warmed the dark wooden chalets, lighting up the floral window boxes while the church bell chimed overhead. From my quick glimpse, Fiesch would be a superb base for hikers looking for somewhere to stay. It’s relatively quiet and untouristy, with fantastic access to the 300 km of hiking trails in the Aletsch Arena.
Finding further information
If you’re a first-time hiker in Switzerland –
Read my tips on hiking the Swiss trails here.
For hiking suggestions in the Jungfrau region –
Read about my top 5 easy hikes here.
Read about hiking the classic Schynige Platte to First Hike here.
If you love hiking with glaciers –
Read about my hike to the Britannia Hutte here.
Read about hiking in Kandersteg here.
For trail running inspiration –
Read about my experience running the Trail Surprise at Eiger Ultra Trail by UTMB here and the E35 here.