I have twenty-year-old memories of sneaky detours to Switzerland’s Christmas markets. Between my repping duties, I strolled cobbled squares full of locals sipping glühwein and munched on Heissi Marroni (roasted chestnuts) as I admired the hand-blown glass baubles twinkling under the street lamps.
Two decades later, I couldn’t wait to return to my favourite Swiss city in December 2024. My pre-trip googling hinted that Luzern’s Christmas markets had changed enormously in size, quantity and location. As soon as I stepped out of the station and found the ice rink, I could see that today’s Christmas market scene was unrecognisable. But the magic remained, and I wandered around in a happy daze.
Why I love Luzern’s Christmas Markets
High on the spirit of Christmas
Despite the unavoidable commerciality of the Christmas market concept, a warm heart shines brightly amongst the wooden stalls and twinkling trees. An ambience of goodwill prevails with minimal pushing, shoving, queuing and drunkenness.
Not too small, not too large and easy to find
In contrast to Luzern, Zurich has an overwhelming choice of Christmas markets, from the vast spread of stalls by the Opera House to one of the largest European indoor venues. In comparison, Luzern’s markets may be too small for some, but for me, they’re perfect; what they lack in size, they make up for in atmosphere.
Both Christmas market locations are within a 10-minute walk from the train station. There’s no need to battle with buses and trams and a low chance (although not impossible) of getting lost.
City sights and festive charm
As you walk to and from the markets, sightseeing comes naturally: lake views, a riverside promenade, the famous Chapel Bridge and the Old Town of Luzern. Away from the markets, twinkling lights on the Rathaussteg bridge and Seebrücke beckon you across the river. Festive charm embraces the entire Old Town, from shop windows swathed in evergreen garlands to festive lanterns illuminating the cobbles and ancient frescoes.
A winter wonderland, whatever the weather
I was disappointed to miss the mid-November storm that coated Luzern and its markets in inches of snow. Two weeks later, a mix of rain and clouds was forecast for my visit, but the weather didn’t dampen my spirits. The rain-dampened pavements and cobblestones enhanced the Christmas lights, which reflected back at me from every surface. Yes, having to dodge umbrellas and splash through puddles is never ideal, but as the crowds disperse, you’ll suddenly have the markets to yourself. Plus, taking shelter is a treat in itself, a perfect excuse to retreat to one of the many cosy restaurants or riverside taverns.
How to plan your visit to Luzern’s Christmas markets
Luzern has two main Christmas markets, Rudolf’s Weihnacht and the Lozärner Wiehnachtsmärt. Plus, you’ll find smaller markets pop up over specific dates. Beyond the markets, you won’t want to miss making memories at the picturesque ice rink. Then stroll the bridges and old town, beautifully decked in festive finery.
Rudolf’s Weihnacht
Rudolf’s Weihnacht, or Rudolf’s Christmas Spectacle, is my favourite market by far. Set lakeside, amongst the trees of Inseli Park, the labyrinth of stalls has a shabby-chic, rustic feel. As you stroll the hut-lined pathways, you’ll find an eclectic selection of crafts and vintage treats.
The fresh lakeside air wafts aromas of Swiss cheese from the Raclette Hut, or head for the cosy retreat of the Fondue Chalet. I was torn between the Rösti stall or a Greek kebab (all tastes catered for). I grabbed a bench in a wooden outdoor pavilion and a mug of Glühwein to help me soak up the ambience. In a nod to sustainability, the food stalls use reusable plates and cutlery (for a refundable CHF2 deposit). Also, note that the market is cashless; card payments only.
Entertainment is as varied as food choices. You might spot a fire juggler and stilt walkers, or you can bop around at the Glühwein Disco or Apres Ski parties held in the Haslital Chalet. Click here for the entire programme https://www.rudolfs.ch/chalets
I visited Rudolf’s Weihnacht twice, once in the afternoon and once in the evening. The Christmas lights were lovely and twinkly even in the afternoon, thanks to the cloudy day and threatening skies. By night, I was truly in my element. As a long-time devotee of the festive season, the enchantment factor was sky-high. As I looked out across the lake, the city shimmered back at me, the lights from the grand hotels lining the promenade and the boats bobbing on the water.
Opening
Open daily from 11 am until 10 pm (8 pm on Sundays). Check the official website here for the varying opening times of the Fondue Chalet and Haslital Chalet.
Getting there
It’s just a 5-minute walk. Exit Luzern train station and head to the right, past the icerink and KKL (Culture and Congress Centre), to reach Inseli Park and Rudolf’s Christmas market.
Lozärner Wiehnachtsmärt
Around 70 market stalls cluster around the medieval Franciscan Church in Franziskanerplatz. It doesn’t quite have the fairytale factor of Rudolf’s Weihnacht, but it’s a picturesque setting and a perfectly lovely Christmas market. There’s a stage set up for near-daily performances by local brass bands and choirs, which would add an extra level of charm.
Don’t miss admiring the Advent wreath on the Franciscan fountain. Over three metres in diameter and with four metre-high candles, it lays claim to the largest Advent wreath in Central Switzerland.
Opening
Open daily from 11 am. Stalls until 8 pm. Food until 9 pm. Until 22nd Dec 2024 (closure 7 pm on final day)
Getting there
It’s just a 10-minute walk. As you exit Luzern train station, bear left towards the famous Chapel Bridge that crosses the river. Stay on the station side of the river and follow it to the elegant white baroque Jesuitenkirche with its twin onion-shaped domes. Bear left at the church to follow Bahnhofstrasse to the Franziskanerplatz and the Christmas market.
Ice Magic Luzern
Watching the skaters twirl and glide below the 15-metre-high Christmas Tree has the magic to melt the heart of the coldest Scrooge. You’ll find the rink at Europlatz by the KKL, just steps from the train station. The lake views, the music and the ambience make this a place to linger even if you don’t want to set foot on the ice.
A handful of retired gondolas serve as intimate places to retire with your mug of Glühwein or bag of Churros. Or opt for fondue in the chalet.
Music sets the scene and accompanies the skaters all day long. There’s a stage for musicians and choirs, theatre performances, ice skating shows and skating lessons available. Click here to read the full programme.
Ice Magic Luzern is open daily until 2nd January 2025 from 11:30 am until 10 pm (Saturdays and Sundays from 10 am). Skating is free, with just a charge for skate hire.
Note that Ice Magic Luzern is cashless. Card only.
Craft Market at Weinmarkt
On Saturdays and Sundays, almost year-round, a local craft market takes place in Weinmarkt. The Weinmarkt square is one of the prettiest and most photographed in the city, with frescoed buildings and an ancient fountain. While not a dedicated Christmas market, the stalls have a decidedly festive feel in December and overflow with gift inspiration.
Christmas Tree Market
Along the lakeside at Schweizerhofquai, from 17th to 23rd December, the promenade will be packed full of Christmas Trees of every shape and size. Even if you’re not planning to stow a Christmas Tree in your luggage, the market is well worth a visit. Breathe in the smell of Christmas, the fresh Swiss air scented with pine, and watch the locals picking their trees.
Venite International Christmas Forum
Don’t be put off by the title. It sounds like hard work, but it’s another Christmas market. Next to Chapel Bridge in Chapel Square, from 12th – 15th December, the market tempts with culinary specialities as far afield as Finland and Vietnam.
Luzern’s Christmas Lights
The beauty of visiting Luzern in December is that the magic continues away from the Christmas Markets. A casual nighttime stroll can quickly become a holiday highlight. No plan or map is needed; just set out to explore. There’s nothing tacky here; warm white lights crisscross overhead as you follow the maze of streets winding through the old town from one exquisitely lit square to another.
You’ll likely happen across the lifesize nativity scene without trying, but if you’re struggling, you’ll find it at Kornmarkt. From here, a flight of steps leads down to the riverside where a Heisse Marroni hut awaits and the Rathaussteg bridge, beautifully swathed with fairy-light-studded evergreen garlands.
Walk to the lakeside, and you’ll spot Christmas trees on the deck of moored lake steamers festooned in enough lights to illuminate the water lapping at the shore. Nearby, one single star hangs between the twin spires of the Hofkirche, the city church. As I walked past at 5 pm on Saturday, a 15-minute bell-ringing extravaganza gave me goosebumps.
Returning to the train station, the Seebrücke (busy traffic bridge across the river) has been transformed into an astoundingly beautiful festive experience. The roar of traffic is forgotten as you walk below the canopy of lights that fall in curtains on either side.
Expect the unexpected
One thing I love about Switzerland is you can NEVER predict what you’ll see or hear next. Halfway across the Seebrücke, the unmistakable resounding clanging of giant cowbells stopped me. I came to a standstill and craned my ears above the traffic noise. It was definitely cowbells, and as I scanned the road ahead, I spotted a line of white figures marching in time with the clangs as they bounced the cowbells off their knees. They were 500m away, so I set off in chase and managed to catch up and follow them for the next 10 minutes or so.
After a short break, they set off again, hauling the heavy bells up and down in time with their footsteps. An hour later, back in my hotel room on the other side of the city, I could still hear the persistent clanging as I nodded off to sleep.
Further Information
Visit Luzern’s official website pages on Christmas markets here.
Visit the Ice Magic Luzern website here.
Read my related blog posts about the Lake Lucerne area and winter in Switzerland below:
My top 3 easy hikes around Lake Lucerne
Winter & skiing in Switzerland
Follow me on Instagram for more tips on what to see and do in and around Lake Lucerne and the rest of Switzerland @onceaswissholidayrep
Sounds great – wish I was there!!
Yes, I was so impressed, really worth a visit!