Securing my race entry to run the E35 North Face Trail in the Eiger UTMB Ultra Trail event was harder than getting Coldplay tickets (and almost the same price). I missed out after clicking the wrong button when they went on sale. Meanwhile, my husband (who clicked on the correct button) had got one of the last entries before they sold out. With our holiday booked, I grabbed an entry for the E16 while I could but was not looking forward to waving him off on his Eiger UTMB E35 adventure. So, a few months later, when I successfully exchanged my E16 for an E35 on the Facebook platform, I felt like dancing on the ceiling Lionel Richie-style.
By the time we flew out to Zurich, I was no less excited but more than a little nervous. The 37km race distance was the least of my worries; I’d run two road Marathons and a 55k trail race in the English Peak District before. My bigger concerns were –
- The technical terrain – Would I be the cause of multiple bottlenecks as I stood nervously dithering over where to place my foot on the narrow rocky descents
- The cut-off times – With over 2500m of elevation gain and running at altitudes up to 2320m the time limits made me very nervous. I would hate to have a DNF.
On the other hand, I couldn’t wait. I’d been desperate to run the E35 since completing the Trail Surprise in 2023 – which you can read about here. After the struggle to secure my place, it had been all I could think about for months.
My build-up to the Eiger UTMB
Race day fell on the middle weekend of our two-week holiday in Switzerland. For the first week, we planned to acclimatise to the altitude and strike a balance between running and resting.
Day 1
We set off on one of our favourite must-do hikes: Wengen to Kleine Scheidegg. At the top, we picnicked overlooking the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau. Then, ran the reverse of the Männlichen to Kleine Scheidegg leg of the E35. It’s a relatively flat 4.5 km, all up at around 2000m, perfect for easing into running at altitude.
Day 2
We decided to recce the start of the E35. The 9km from Burglauenen to Wengen was the only part of the route I was unfamiliar with. Even with photo stops and a leisurely pace, we arrived in Wengen 45 minutes before the race cut-off time limit, a great confidence booster.
Day 3
Wary of overdoing it, we set off on the train for a relaxing day in Neuchâtel. After strolling the lakeside promenade we wandered around the picturesque old town, admiring the colourful buildings.
Day 4
Keen to get in more time at altitude, we jumped on the train to the Valais region. From the top of the Moosfluh cable car at 2,333m, we set off on an undulating and spectacular 12km trail. All above 2000m, it skirts the mountainside following the course of the impressive Aletsch glacier.
Day 5
We hopped on the train to Thun for another rest day. After wandering around the medieval town centre, we grabbed a picnic lunch. Then, cruised back to Interlaken under clear blue skies.
Day 6 – Bib pick-up day!
Grindelwald is an inspiring place to be on any day of the year; you only have to glance up at the Eiger. But the town simmers in anticipation during the Eiger UTMB event. ‘Welcome Trail Runners’ announces the railway bridge over the main road. The UTMB inflatable arch beckons you through to check out the pasta party tent, the steep downhill ramp leading to the red-carpeted finishing line, and the prize-giving stage. We headed into the sports centre to pick up our race bibs. There was barely a queue, and the expected mandatory kit check didn’t happen, so our carefully prepared running packs were totally ignored. Next stop: the obligatory race bib photo in front of the Eiger.
We enjoyed a few hours in Grindelwald, cheering on this year’s Trail Surprise runners. Then, after ‘window-shopping’ at the Eiger UTMB Expo, we picnicked in a shady spot of grass outside the sports centre.
My Eiger UTMB E35 Race day
Getting to the start line
After a 05:00 am wake up and a larger-than-normal bowl of bircher muesli, we set off through the deserted streets of Wilderswil to the station. Unsurprisingly, the platform and 06:40 am train arriving from Interlaken were packed with runners. We squeezed on, found a seat, and I tried to relax.
The train pulled into Burglauenen, and we joined the herd of runners heading towards the start area. Above, the sky was clear. We would be treated to the full splendour of the Jungfrau mountains today, but the predicted highs of 28°C were worrying. For now, though, Burglauenen lay in the shadow of the steep valley sides.
I was almost chilly as I stood in the queue for the portaloos. Luckily, I had an hour before my start time of 08:05 am. Nearly half of that passed before I reached the front.
Exiting my portaloo, I just managed to catch the start of the speedy runners in the first wave at 07:35 am. They sprinted off down the road, and I watched in awe. As they veered off up the first incline, they were soon in the sunshine now bathing the chalets and meadows across the valley in a warm glow.
I swung my legs around in a self-conscious attempt at a warm-up whilst trying not to kick anyone. The loudspeakers played energising dance music, and we captured some start-line photographs. Then the expectant crowd expanded to fill the start-line funnel. We shuffled in towards the rear half.
As the Swiss clocks ticked ever closer to 08:05, the sun lit up the whole valley. My heart was racing; this was the moment I’d been waiting for. “10…9…8…7…” The official countdown boomed above my head, and I was moving towards and then below that huge inflatable UTMB arch.
Burglauenen to Wengen
Remembering to start my watch, we were off, down the tarmac main road and into the sunshine. After a mere 200m of flatness, we crossed the railway line and began to climb. Immediately, my watch showed my heart rate was too high. I was pounding up the narrow road in a congested pack of runners. Luckily, I’d positioned myself with those of a similar pace. As people jostled to overtake, I was in no rush. Keen to calm my heart rate down, I stabbed my poles on the tarmac, aiming to get into a steady rhythm.
Before long, we’d ticked off 3km and 400m of elevation. The increasingly gravelly road turned into a dirt track before narrowing to a single rocky mountain path. Occasional clearings through the trees revealed vertigo-inducing views back down towards Burglauenen.
Eventually, we emerged into bright sunshine at a steep grassy field with a little barn perched at the top. I recognised this from our recce run a few days earlier. From here down to Wengen, it was mostly downhill on lovely runnable trails with dangerously distracting views across to the Jungfrau and Lauterbrunnen Valley.
Catching my breath, I stashed my poles before setting off at a decent pace, only to realise that I suddenly had the stitch. I’d been careful to eat one piece of my favourite energy bar every 15 minutes, but I stopped and had a salt tablet, hoping that would help. Only 09:00 am, it was already getting warm. I slowed my pace a little, and after a while, the stitch eased, and I made it down to Wengen.
Wengen to Männlichen
With my poles already stashed, I quickly filled up my bottles at the bustling Wengen refreshment point (one water, one Näak watermelon energy drink). I passed through with 50 minutes to spare before the cut-off. Delighted, I treated myself to a quick toilet stop as I reached the cable car station.
Next up was the section I’d been psyching myself up for. Emerging from the station building, I could see the line of the cable rising above me. The next stop (for both the cable car and me) was the Männlichen top station. From where I stood, it was barely visible atop the cliff face, 1000m above my head.
In all my time working and holidaying in the vicinity, I’d never tackled this 5km climb. Just looking down from the top at the steep zigzags was enough to put me off. But now it was my turn. I gripped my poles, grimly determined to conquer the vertical kilometre.
The first part of the trail passes steeply up through the forest, at least providing shelter from the sun’s glare. I gritted my teeth and settled into a rhythm with the runners around me, remembering to eat a chunk of energy bar every 15 minutes. After about 2.5km, we were above the treeline. I’d positioned myself behind a runner dressed in yellow. He was going at a sensible pace that was helping moderate my heart rate.
From here, the climb and heat were relentless. I’ve no idea how I looked so happy when confronted with the sneakily placed photographer lurking just above a steep avalanche barrier. I tried to reward myself, every other zigzag, with a glance at the incredible view – the Silberhorn glittering ahead and Wengen now way down below.
Cowbells & alphorns at Männlichen
Eventually, I heard the clang of cowbells above me. I love the sound of cowbells at any time, but hearing the small crowd of cheering spectators ringing them at the gate, welcoming me to the top of Männlichen, was a very special moment. Given the steepness, the summit ridge of Männlichen is only visible as you clamber onto the top. Tourists and hikers milled around the inflatable Eiger UTMB arch that led to the refreshment point, and the spectacular mountain backdrop of the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau looked incredible under the dazzling blue sky. To top it all off, a trio of Alphorn players had assembled to serenade us as we approached. Now, I had goosebumps.
Feeling on top of the world and grinning like a Cheshire Cat, I meandered aimlessly around for a minute or two, capturing the alphorns on my phone and enjoying the moment. Then, I remembered I was in a race with cut-off times. I trotted through the arch, refilled my bottles and perused the buffet selection of nutrition. After pouncing on the salted caramel Näak waffles, I ate half a Näak berry energy bar, half a banana, and a couple of orange segments, then took another waffle and 2nd half a banana for the road.
Männlichen to Kleine Scheidegg
Through the checkpoint, still with 50 minutes to spare, I set off at what turned out to be a risky pace, given my recent feast. The next 4.5km follows the well-trodden pathway to Kleine Sheidegg. This is one of my top 5 hikes in the Jungfrau Region, which you can read about here.
I love this trail, so I ignored my increasingly dodgy stomach. Concentrating instead on dodging the hikers, I kept up my rapid pace to gain a further 15-minute buffer on the cut-off time.
As I approached Kleine Scheidegg, the train from Grindelwald was rolling up the mountainside towards us. Held at the side of the track, waiting for it to pass, I took the opportunity to make another toilet stop.
Kleine Scheidegg to Eigergletscher
Feeling much better but unable to stomach anything from the Kleine Scheidegg refreshment point, I topped up my water and headed straight off. The following 3km would take me up to the high point of the race, Eigergletscher, at 2320m.
Leaving behind the crowded bustle of Kleine Scheidegg station, the first part of the trail cuts across a beautiful flower-strewn alpine meadow, seemingly heading straight for the Jungfrau. It’s breathtaking, with some nice runnable sections that make you feel like you’re the best runner in the world (just for a few seconds until you remember the reality).
I felt exhilarated during this part of the race, even when the runnable section gave way to the arduous climb to Eigergletscher. The trail rises from the lush meadow and enters a barren world of grey, loose scree and large rocky boulders. I attacked with my poles and pounded with my feet way too energetically. Rising to my right were the incredible glaciers and wild rock faces of the Eiger and Jungfrau. I was sure I could hear the roar of glacial water from deep within, and it seemed to power me upwards. I was overtaking people and was amazed to spot my husband up ahead. Spurred on even more, I decided I’d surprise him by catching him up, so I pushed on and on, feeling invincible.
“I feel dreadful”, he said as I reached him. He was struggling with stomach issues and felt nauseous. “Carry on, don’t wait for me”, he said after we’d hiked a bit together. But by now, I’d come to my senses and realised I’d been going far faster than was wise. I stuck with him until we reached Eigergletscher, where I left him grumpily sitting on a rock, trying to consume a gel.
Eigergletscher to Brandegg
Still feeling good, I set off down the classic Eiger North Face trail to Alpiglen. The trail then drops past Brandegg. It’s an overall descent of almost 1400m over 10 km, all in one go. I’d naively imagined myself galloping happily down this section.
According to my nauseous husband, as he sat spectating, I was flying over the first part of the descent. But a lot of loose gravel and rocky stretches soon slowed me. After a couple of recent falls and keen to avoid further souvenir scars on my knees or another broken finger, I descended cautiously. I’d just slowed to a hike to pick my way through a particularly technical section when my husband bounded alongside. “I’m feeling much better”, he beamed.
We ran together for a few kilometres. Gradually, the trail became less technical but increasingly steep. My quads were screaming. I was trying all sorts of weird running styles to ease the pain, zig-zagging across the path like a slaloming skier one minute and using my poles to relieve some of the downward force the next. Nothing worked.
I was struggling to eat and could only stomach orange segments at the next and final checkpoint, Brandegg. On the bright side, now just short of 30 km, I’d somehow got a 1 hour 40 minutes buffer on the cut-off time. But I had no idea how I’d get through the last 7km.
Brandegg to Grindelwald
The final part of the neverending descent joined a tarmac road, which was even more painful. As I grimaced, hobbling down a particularly steep pathway, I heard fast, pounding footsteps behind me. Pinning myself to the side, I watched in disbelief as Andreas Reiterer, the soon-to-be winner of the E101, belted past. He’d started less than 12 hours ago!
With 4km left to go, I’d finally made it to the bottom. I was ecstatic; it was time to ascend again, and I couldn’t wait. Yet, as soon as I started climbing, I felt even worse. It was the hottest part of the day, and suddenly completely drained of energy, I wasn’t sure how I could go on. I sent my now-sprightly husband off ahead and plodded miserably into the forest. Over the next two kilometres, I lost 27 places. A steady stream of people overtook me, including (I was pained to note) several people I’d overtaken on my ill-advised push up to Eigergletscher.
At my lowest point, I sank into the ground at the side of the trail and dug some salted peanuts out of my bag. I forced myself to chew them into a mush I could barely swallow. Whether it was the minuscule amount of salt I managed to digest or the three-minute rest, I rose to my feet feeling ever so slightly better.
The final push
Those last few kilometres felt disproportionately long and challenging. After passing through a campsite, I asked a marshall to confirm I only had 1km left to go, telling myself I could make it if so. He studied my face for a few seconds before admitting it was more like 2km. Ok, 2km. I tried to talk myself into this unpleasant news and pushed on.
Then, with 800m left to go, I recognised where I was. I’d watched Emelie Forsberg on the Eiger UTMB live stream last summer, making her final push up this hill on her way to being crowned 1st female in the E51. With this in mind, I struggled onwards.
As the pathway curved around to reach the top, I was eternally grateful for the cheers from the scattered people sitting on the walls. Then I hit the main road through Grindelwald, and my tiredness vanished. With a massive smile, I ran as fast as I could past the familiar sports shops, restaurants and hotels of Grindelwald, soaking in the shouts of encouragement and loving life.
The finish line!
The cheering seemed to crescendo as I sprinted down the final straight. I only slowed slightly to grimace and pray my legs would hold for the 45-degree ramp that plummets down to the red carpet. Fixing my eyes on the giant cowbells hanging over the Eiger UTMB finish line, I ran for it as the commentator called out my name. And there I was, Eiger finisher stone around my neck and finisher t-shirt ready to wear with pride the following day.
I was thrilled to finish 1 hour 45 minutes before the cut-off time. Not even my husband finishing 8 minutes ahead could dampen my spirits. Reluctant to leave the finish line area, I ate segment after segment of orange, which was still the only thing I could manage. Then we headed to the sports centre to collect the drop bags we’d deposited at Burglauenen that morning. Unfortunately, I’d failed to think of packing a towel. Big mistake – I couldn’t have a shower and benefit from the offer of a free massage. Instead, we headed straight to the pasta party tent to claim our free spaghetti bolognese (gluten-free available for my Celiac husband – thank you, UTMB). We squeezed onto the end of a big wooden table, and I forced myself to eat as much of the very generous portion as possible.
Not wanting the day to end, we returned to the finish line to cheer a few runners in. But with the heat of the day, we were starting to flag. Feeling sweaty and desperate for a shower, we took the train back to Wilderswil and the unwelcome uphill walk to our apartment.
The next day
We woke the next day after a guilt-free lie-in. Then, set off for a leg-loosening hobble around Interlaken in our finisher t-shirts. That day, there were finisher t-shirts everywhere. It seemed every other person had run one of the Eiger Ultra Trail races.
As I sipped my coffee, I noticed a young British woman wearing a finisher t-shirt for the E101. 101km and 6700m of elevation gain! I was in awe of this achievement and had to quiz her about it. “That’s something we could aim for one day”, said my husband later. I still can’t work out if he was joking or not.
The aftermath of my Eiger UTMB experience
Running the E35 in my most favourite place in the world was a fantastic experience I’ll never forget. From the highs of powering up Eigergletscher to the lows of force-feeding myself peanuts slumped in a forest, it really pushed me. I would love to run the E51 in the next few years. While the thought of the E101 currently seems impossible madness, who knows? Only a few years ago, I had no interest in running more than 10k. I was a hiker and thought trail running was a mad idea.
Finding Facts & Further Information
For more trail running inspiration –
Read about my Eiger UTMB Trail Surprise adventure here.
Click here for my post on running the classic trail from Schynige Platte to First.
Click here for my post on running the Niederhorn Ridge Trail.
Click here for my post on hiking / running the Aletsch Glacier Trail.
Follow me on Instagram @onceaswissholidayrep
Read more about Eiger Ultra Trail by UTMB on the official website here.